Half-lined coat



April 2, 1940. N. BARBIERI 2,195,806

HALF-LINED COAT Filed March 4, 1939 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Fig.2

filaf IM/ENTOR. BY 7 x ATTORNEYS April 2, 1940. N. BARBIERI HALF-LINED COAT Filed Max ch 4, 1939 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 i N VENTOR.

BY Mel ATTORNEYS April 2, 1940. N. BARBIERI HALF-LINED COAT F iled March 4, 1939 3 Sheets-Sheetfi INVENTOR. M fimgwu ATTORNEYS Patented Apr. 2, 1940- UNITED" STATES PATENT OFFICE A v 2,195,806 HALF-LINED con'r Nick Barbieri, Brooklyn, N. Y. Application March 4, 1939, Serial No. 259,924

3 Claims.

My invention relates to a new and improved half-lined coat, of the kind which is used for summer wear.

One of the objects of my invention is to provide an improved coat of the type which has no sleeve lining.

Another object of the invention is to provide a coat of this kind having replaceable pads in the shoulder portions thereof, which can be inserted for securing the proper fit and hang of the improved coat.

Another object of the invention is to provide a coat which can be supplied ready-made to retailers and which will have pockets toreceive pads for adjusting the fit and hang of the coat to the customer.

Another object-of the invention is to provide a coat which can be simply manufactured, and

without substantially increasing the cost of man ufacture.

Other objects of my invention will be set forth in the following description and drawings which illustrate preferred embodiments thereof, it being understood that the above statement of the objects of my invention is intended generally to explain the same without limiting it in any manner.

Fig. 1 is a front elevation of the improved coat.

Fig. 2 is a partial inner elevation showing the arm-hole of the coat and the pocket for receiving the pad. In this view the arm-hole has been pushed forwardly so that the relative positions of many of the parts shown in Fig. 2 are inverted relative to the positions thereof in the garment when it is worn. The positions of said parts, when the garment is worn, are shown in Fig. 3.

Figs. 3 and 4 are respectively sectional views on the lines 3-3 and 44 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 5 is a sectional view on the line 5--5 of Fig. 2.

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the improved pad.

Fig. 7 is a sectional view on the line of Fi 6.

Fig. 8 is a view similar to Fig. 2 of a second embodiment of the invention, with the pocket open.

Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 3, of a complete coat made according to the second embodiment.

Fig. 10 is a perspective view of the pad used 'in the second embodiment.

The coat has a body I, sleeves 2, and a collar C, said collar being connected to body I by stitches S. The two longitudinal halves of the coat are identical so that the description of the construction at one shoulder applies to the construction at the other shoulder. Each shoulder has an inclined seam 25, which extends from stitches S to the arm-hole of the sleeve. Portions of body 6 l are sewed together along seams 25.

Top-lining members are provided at the top of the back. Each lining member has an outer layer, said outer layers being designated by the reference numerals 3 and 30.. Each said outer 10 layer is sewed to an inner layer 30 by stitches 3 Inner facing members |8a are made of the same material as body I. Said facing members 18a can be made of any material. Each facing member I80: has an inner longitudinal edge l8b. Each outer longitudinal edge of each facing member l8a is sewed to the respective longitudinal edge of body I. Said facing members l8a are also cut to the shape of the lapels, and their edges are sewed to the edges of the lapels.

The top of each facing member l8a is connected to the top of body I by some of the stitches S. Each facing member |8a extends in-' wardly at its top to the edge I5 of the outer layer of the respective top-lining member and each facing member l8a is sewed to the respective edge l5.

Each facing member l8a has a lining strip 4 which is sewed to the adjacent inner layer 30, by means of stitches 32 which may be parallel to and directly underneath the stitches of seam 25, or parallel to and offset from the stitches of seam 25. Each lining strip 4 covers the entire inner face of the respective facing member I811. The longitudinal edges and the bottom edge of 35 each lining strip 4 are sewed to the corresponding edges of the respective facing member I80. The upper edge of each lining strip 4 is sewed to the body I and to the upper edge of the respective facing I8a by some of the stitches S. The edge l5 of the outer. layer of each top-lining member is not sewed to the corresponding edge of layer 30. The outer layers 3 and 3a. of each top-lining member are identical in size and shape with the respective inner layers 3c.

A first or top pocket member 5, made of any suitable fabric, is sewed to adjacent layer 30 and to the adjacent lining strip 4 by an arcuate line of stitches 6,.which intersect stitches 32.

A circumferentially continuous U-shaped piping 1 embraces the inner end of sleeve 2 and the adjacent part of the body fabric and the outer edge of top pocket member 5. Stitches 8 connect piping I to the edges of the fabric members which are located between the legs of said piping 1.

A bottom or second pocket member 9, also made of fabric, is sewed to adjacent inner layer 30 and to adjacent lining strip 4 by said arcuate line of stitches 6.

A second piping l0 embraces the corresponding edges of outer end inner layers 3 and 3c, and of bottom pocket member 9 and of facing member l8a. Said piping I0 is connected to the edges of said members by stitches II.

The second piping I0 is located between the points I 2 and 23 which are indicated in Fig. 2, so that one end of said piping abuts the inner longitudinal edge I 8b of member I811. The broken line at inner edge I811 01 facing member l8a indicates the stitches which connect said inner edge l8b to the corresponding edge of lining strip 4. The pipings 1 and ID are sewed to each other, save at the mouth of the pocket.

The reference numeral 30 in Fig. 1 indicates the curved or arcuate seam which is made by stitches 6. The reference numeral l4 in Fig. 2 indicates the lower end of edge l5.

The pocket which is thus formed by members 5 and 9 can have its mouth closed detachably by snap-fasteners I5 and I! or by other closure devices.

A pad 40 can be located in each said shoulder pocket. Each pad has fabric layers 42 and 43, which enclose stuffing 4|. Layers 42 and 43 are connected by stitches 44. Corresponding portions of layers 42 and 43 are embraced by fabric layer 45, which is sewed to layers 42 and 43 by stitches 46. Additional stufling 41 is located in the supplemental pocket which is thus formed.

The coat which is illustrated is double breasted and it has outer buttons 2|, an inner button 20, and button holes 22. The inner longitudinal edge l8b of the facing is connected to the body of the coat at spaced points 24. The facing is tapered, so that it is narrowest at its bottom edge.

I therefore provide a pocket having a mouth whose lower-edge-wall coincides with a portion of the arm hole, said lower edge-wall being movable relative to the inner end of the sleeve. The upper edge-wall of said mouth is sewed to a portion of the sleeve and the corresponding portion of the body of the coat.

The garment can be made very simply and a pad of proper thickness can be readily inserted by the retailer, in order to give the garment the proper fit and hang. The shoulder pads can be readily removed when the garment is washed or dry-cleaned. The invention is not limited to the particular type of coat which has been illustrated, and numerous changes and omissions can be made without departing from its spirit.

It will be noted that at each arm-hole the respective inner layer 36 and a portion of the respective lining strip 4, comprise lining means which are located only at the upper part of said arm-hole. The upper pocket member 5 has an outer edge-wall which is connected to said armhole, and said upper pocket member 5 has an inner edge which is located between the armhole and the collar of the coat. The inner edges of the pocket members 5 and 9 are connected to the aforesaid lining means which are provided at the upper portion of the arm-hole.

The embodiment shown in Figs. 8-10 omits the separable closure members I6 and I1. In the second embodiment the shoulder pads are inserted at the factory. The mouth of the pocket is provided with a closure member 50. This closure member 50 is made of a piece of cloth which has been doubled at one of its edges so as to provide two layers of fabric. The free edges of said layers are located between the layers of the piping Ill. The stitches ll connect the free edges of the layers of the closure member 50 to said piping III.

In this embodiment I utilize a pad 52 of the type shown in Fig. 10. The mouth of said pad has edge-walls 53 and 54 and said pad has stuffing 55. The stuffing is connected to the walls of the pad 52 by means of lines of stitches 56, 51 and 58. These stitches 56, 51 and 58 pass through both walls of the pocket 52 so as to confine the stufiing 55 without compressing it. After the pad has thus been inserted at the factory, the free edge of the closure member 50 is connected by means of stitches 5| to piping 1. The broken-line position of the closure member 50 is indicated in Fig. 9 by the reference numeral 50 In Fig. 8 the ends of the closure member 50 are indicated respectively by the reference numerals 50a and 5017- Each facing member 3a, its lining strip 4, and the adjacent top-lining member form a flattened bag-like member, because the facing member [8a is connected to one of the layers of the adjacent top-lining member and the lining strip 4 is con- 'nected to the other layer of the top-lining member. This bag-like member has portions of its edges separated, and said separated portions are sewed to the mouth-edges of the pocket members 5 and 9. The inner or arcuate edges of said pocket members are sewed to each other and to the inner portion of said bag-like member, namely, the lining strip 4 and the inner layer of the top-lining member. The inner arcuate edges of the pocket members are not sewed to the facing member or to the outer layer of the top-lining member. The inner portion of said bag-like member is connected to the arm-hole between the points designated by the reference letters I2 and 23. Hence the pocket is formed Without the use of a sleeve lining.

I have shown preferred embodiments of the invention, but it is clear that numerous changes and omissions can be made without departing from its spirit.

I claim:

1. A coat having a body and a collar and unlined sleeves, said coat having a top-lining member, said top-lining member having an outer layer and an inner layer which is located between the outer layer and the body of the coat, a portion of the layers of said top-lining member being sewed to the body of the coat at the collar, another portion of the layers of said top-lining member being sewed to a portion of the respective arm-hole of the coat, the respective side of the body having an inner facing member, said facing member having a lining strip which is located between the facing member and the body of the coat, said facing member having one edge thereof sewed to the respective edge of the body, said facing member being sewed to the remaining portion of the outer layer of the respective top-lining member, said lining strip being sewed to the remaining portion of the inner layer of the respective top-lining member, so that said facing strip and its lining strip and its top-lining member comprise a flattened double-walled member, first pocket member having a mouth-edge which is sewed to a portion of the respective armhole, a second pocket member each said pocket-memher having a mouth-edge which is sewed to portions of the edges of the respective facing member and outer layer, said first pocket member having an inner edge which is sewed to portions of the respective lining strip and oi. the respective inner layer, said second pocket member having an inner edge which is sewed to the inner edge of the first pocket member and to portions of the facing member and of the respective outer layer, said pocket members being located in a shoulder of the body.

2. A coat having a body and unlined sleeves, said coat having a double-walled member having an outer wall and also having an inner wall which is located between the outer wall and the body of the coat, a first pocket member having a mouthedge which is connected to said inner wall and to a portion of the armhole of a sleeve, a second pocket member having a mouth-edge which is connected to a portion of said outer wall, said pocket members having inner edges which are said double-walled member having both walls thereof connected to the armhole beyond each end 01 the mouth-edge of the first pocket member, said pocket members forming a pocket in the shoulder of the coat.

3. A coat having a body and an unlined sleeve, a first pocket member having a mouth-edge which is connected to a portion of the armhole of said sleeve, said first pocket member also having an inner edge, a second pocket member having an inner edge which is connected to the inner edge of the but pocket member, said pocket member being located in a shoulder of the coat, said second pocket member also having a mouth-edge, said mouth-edges being located at the armhole seam, the mouth-edge of the second pocket member being also connected to a portion of said armhlole, said pocket members being adapted to receive an independent pad which is inserted between said mouth-edges, when said mouth-edges are separated from each other.

NICK BARBIERI. 

